Split Pea Soup

Updated, from the recipe archives. First published 2006. ~Elise

There's something about winter that just begs for the making of split pea soup, wouldn't you agree? Like the proverbial groundhog, who failing to see his shadow, retreats into the comfort of his burrow, in the chilly, foggy dampness of what is Sacramento winter, I stick my head out the door, only to make a quick retreat back into the house, wanting nothing more than to make a big pot of this hearty soup. Made with dried 'split' peas, and cooked up with flavorful, smokey ham hocks, split pea soup is warm, satisfying, and great for leftovers.

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Beef Tacos de Lengua

This recipe is not for the food-queazy. If that's you, you might want to just skip this one, or instead check out some of our chicken breast recipes.

What? You're still with us? Okay, don't say I didn't warn you.

My first recollection of beef tongue was when I was about 8 years old and there happened to be a huge one in the refrigerator. It looked, and felt (I touched it, who could resist?) like a ginormous tongue. Just like my little 8-year old tongue, but oh my gosh, it was so big! And then my parents cooked it and made us eat it. (No idea how they prepared it.) The texture. It was so, so tongue-like. All too weird, even for me.

Fast forward a couple decades (okay, more than a couple) and I'm in Mexico when my bud Matt announces that there's a crowd around the lengua tacos in the buffet line. I get there just in time to scoop up the last of the day's lengua for my taco and I'm in tongue heaven. So tender, so perfect in a taco.

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Lentil Stew with Sausage

I'm in serious weather denial. With what seems like the fourth storm this week to hit California (is Noah building his 'arky arky' yet?) I'm still puttering around the house in shorts and flip flops, and dreaming of good times in warmer weather. But there is only so much denying one can do, before the shivering reality sets in, and then it's time for stew. Lentil stew in this case. My friend Clara and I were inspired to make this hearty lentil stew today, in the midst of yet another downpour, based on Clara's family recipe. It's made with bacon and sausage, a mirepoix of onions, carrots, and celery, and topped with parsley. The amounts are approximate (except for the liquid to lentil ratio, 6 cups liquid per pound lentils), feel free to experiment, more or less bacon, sausage. We made a double recipe, to make sure that Clara's family had plenty for leftovers during the week.

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Lamb Braised in Milk with Fennel

Lamb braised in milk. Huh? Okay, yes, I know it sounds weird (at least it did to me at first) but hear me out. It's just a spin on a traditional Italian recipe of pork braised in milk, in which the milk reduces down to a rich and creamy white sauce. For you I-don't-eat-lamb types, check out the links at the bottom of the recipe to a few excellent recipes for pork variations. For you lamb-lovers (and yes I admit that here in the US we are definitely in the minority) I urge you to give this treatment a try. My friend Peg made this for a few of us the other day, served over farro, and I couldn't wait to make it. She got the recipe from Mario Batali, and I tweaked with it a bit. So good! Especially over the farro, though I'm guessing it would be just as good over brown rice (for the nutty dimension) or even mashed potatoes.

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Braised BBQ Beef Sandwich

From the recipe archives, perfect for cold weather. ~Elise

My mother grew up in a house where there was constant entertaining. My nana was somewhat of a social bee and even I remember how every night was a party night when as a child I came to visit during the summer. Mom and dad were reminiscing the other day about one of their favorite recipes of my grandmother's, her pulled beef, braised in BBQ sauce. Mom remembers Nana once feeding 80 people this dish at her small adobe house in Tucson. It's terribly easy to make, you can easily double, triple, quadruple the recipe, making it perfect for serving large groups of people in an informal gathering, and it's absolutely delicious.

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Cinnamon Toast

So much of our enjoyment of foods comes from the memories they evoke, don't you think? Cinnamon toast. Just saying the words and I see myself 8 years old sitting at our dining room table with assorted siblings, elbowing each other while we greedily reached for the sugar and cinnamon to sprinkle on our warm buttered toast. (My sister probably doesn't remember this, but she would skip the cinnamon and just sprinkle on sugar.) Cinnamon toast was a treat. It took skill; if you weren't careful holding that spoon you would end up with hilly clumps instead of an even spread.

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Spicy Breaded Chicken Wings

Sometime in the mid 80s I gave my father a subscription to Gourmet magazine. Looking back I think that's just about one of the most brilliant, inspired things I've ever done. Not only did it launch dad into what has become a life long passion for him, but we, his family, have been the ongoing beneficiaries of his recipe research and experiments. There is always something good cooking at my parent's house. These chicken wings are no exception. Dad found the recipe in a 1987 issue of Gourmet, for 'deviled chicken wings'. They are easy to make, relatively inexpensive (wings are cheap!), and insanely good. Great for appetizers for watching the playoffs, or as a main course with a side of Spanish rice.

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